A year with a difference... Farewell Turkey

A Very Big Adventure is bidding farewell, as the Adventurer is returning to New Zealand after a year with a difference. Discovering Ankara, visits to Istanbul, Antalya and Beypazarı, birthdays in Kapadokya, family time in Provence, and a delightful whirlwind trip to London and Oxford have been some of the highlights of the past year. I hope you've enjoyed the ride!

Ahh... Istanbul

Taksim Tram / Istanbul - an architectural feast / Topkapı Palace Gardens / Pera, Taksim / Fishing rods, Bosphorus / Fish market, Taksim / Ottoman houses / Permanent residents 

Weekend wanders

For a weekend wander in the capital, the old citadel is hard to beat. I never tire of the wonderful antique shops that line the cobbled streets, or Pirinç Cafe (inside one of the old courtyards), which serves up the best gözleme and ayran in town. The view over the city is absolutely sensational - especially on a clear winters day when you can see across to the majestic snow-covered peaks. Today we sauntered around the shops ('Ala Turca' has a wonderful selection of old maps, prints and photographs of the city) before indulging at Pirinç for a late brunch, followed by tea in the old museum/restaurant Kınacızade Konağı. We always discover new places to browse and dine, and a clear winter's day can be a great time to enjoy it, as it can get rather busy with tourists in the summer. Taking a taxi up to the citadel from Ulus (or the 'Theatre' bus stop) is the best way to get there, but a walk down the hill brings with it even more delights. The architecture in Ulus is the most beautiful in the city, and the food market is positively mouth-watering. 

Bringing in the New Year

New Year's Eve in Ankara was a chilly but fun affair - pre-dinner drinks in one of Kızılay's many cosy bars, followed by a Chinese feast off Tunalı Hilmi Caddesi (one of the few places non-Turkish dinner delights can be found) and topped off with post-dinner drinks and decadent dessert at a nearby cafe. We counted down to the New Year with our fellow diners, sparklers (care of the cafe staff) in hand! A very sleepy New Year's Day was enjoyed with family over a very long brunch and much coffee!

Bin Kalp Atışı/A Thousand Heartbeats

If you are a modern dance fan living in or visiting Ankara between now and 10 January, Bin Kalp Atışı/A Thousand Heartbeats is an absolute must-see. Two of the three pieces - 'Satie' and 'INFUSION' - are the work of Colombian/Belgian choreographer Annabelle Lopez Ochoa, whose slick sophisticated style is really something to behold. These pieces perfectly balance energy and delicacy, humour and hard truths. The music shifts sublimely from postmodern to live vocals to Johann Sebastian Bach, and the costumes are exquisite. Truly a feast for the eyes, mind and soul.

Cihat Aral

Recently I was fortunate enough to be invited to the Bilkent University Gallery for the opening of the Cihat Aral exhibition, which runs until 14 January. Aral's handling of composition, colour and light is quite extraordinary, and while seeking to express the depths of the human condition and the tragedy that often accompanies it, his subject matter gives insights into Turkish history and culture.

A White Christmas

I awoke on the morning of Christmas Eve to a winter wonderland. It was the icing on the cake for what was to be a delightful evening of good food, good wine and good friends.

Art off the beaten track

A day researching at Bilkent University Library led to a new discovery - the Library Gallery. Situated on the ground floor, the gallery is home to regularly revolving exhibitions and free lunchtime concerts and lectures. Yesterday I enjoyed a special display of original Ottoman jewellery and a selection of work by Florentine artist Marco Mavilla, followed by a delightful piano and classical guitar performance. If you're in the vicinity it's well worth a visit.

A dervish with a difference

One of Ankara's best kept secrets is the Modern Art Centre, which is only a ten minute walk from Kızılay. A serene modern space on four levels, there is room to accomodate several art exhibitions at once and a slick cafe for tea breaks. There is also a smart theatre space for the plays and music concerts free to the public every Tuesday and Wednesday evening. Recently I attended a piano concert with a difference. Shamefully the name of the Turkish composer escapes me, but what I shall never forget is the final composition, which was accompanied by no less than a whirling dervish. Based on the audience's intake of breath, murmurs of delight and cellphone photography this must have been quite a treat for locals as well as foreigners. 'All About Turkey' explains that the 'Ritual of Sema' is a spiritual journey based on the idea that 'the fundamental condition of our existence is to revolve. The ritual whirling of the dervishes is an act of love and a drama of faith. It possesses a highly structured form within which the gentle turns become increasingly dynamic as the individual dervishes strive to achieve a state of transcendence.' It was certainly an unexpected and unforgettable act to witness, and I look forward to taking in the full performance on a future visit to Konya, south of Ankara, where the story of the whirling dervishes began. 

A new address for fellow bibliophiles

In a grand gesture of pre-New Year organisation I am 'tidying up' my blog banter. All book-related inspiration can now be found at Bibliomiss, leaving A Very Big Adventure for nothing-but-Turkey. Hope you enjoy!